Little heat and came off pretty easily. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. "publisher": { Look for leaks coming from above. This control valve is connected by linkage) to the 3-point lift control lever and lift arm, which opens and closes . We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. Wrong? I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Pic attached. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. It has a tendency to accumulate moisture from condensation inside the gear cases and the water collects in the bottom of the sump where it is drawn directly into the hydraulic pump. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? I have pulled the pump and cleaned the pump cavity. Draining this water is easy to do. When changing the fluid, try to flush as much of the sludge as possible out with the old fluid. Little heat and came off pretty easily. This is a very common complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in the lift control linkage. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). "dateModified": "2001-10-31", This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. Many times you will find that simply replacing the worn pin will take care of the problem without any further adjustments, but you have to completely reassemble the tractor to find out if you are lucky or not. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. Tractor Identification & History, About F/FCA However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Condition: Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. For a trailer queen, we would rebuild all the seals and stop the drips. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. 230044-WNL Stabilizer Pins Fits Ford 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 700 800 900 2000 4000 4CYL . Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? So, you guilted me into starting with step one. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. "@type": "Person", Make a The worst spot for that is the drain plug where the pump is. That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes. When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. Wrong? }, The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. "mainEntityOfPage": { I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. Then, if you have a jig, adjust the linkage to specs. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. If the control rod is bent, remove it & straighten it. Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). If you only have time to do one, do that one. Your email address will not be published. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. I have a leak in my oil tube (9n567). Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Free shipping . Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. The new Position Control setting bypassed the draft control and allowed the implement to remain at a consistent position relative to the position of the Touch Control lever.A continued drawback to this series of tractor, was the safety need for an overrunning clutch at the end of the PTO shaft.. Choke Control Rod Assembly.Ford - Fits: 2N, 9N; Replaces: 9N9700 * Fits (1939-47)* NOTE: this is 1 . Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). 4 - Do you leave your tractor parked outside? "@type": "WebPage", Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. Have a question about my 8N hydraulics. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. If temperatures have been below freezing, the water will freeze. 3 - Is it below freezing now? Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. How's this procedure Zane? TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Pic attached. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way. WRONG! Now assembly them on the 3PT lift control arm swing. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. There has got to be a better way. It makes a big difference. 17). Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. It is critical. I'll let you know how I do. My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Thanks for te help. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. Thanks for you help!! Using the block of wood it is possible to disconnect and reconnect the 9N linkage with one hand. It is possible to repair and adjust your lift using just the instructions in the I&T FO-4 manual. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see "perfectly straight" would not describe my control lever. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Right there in the slot as a STOP to prevent going higher. Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Required fields are marked *. Simple to make from the hardware store. } A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. Nov 11, 2020 / 3 Point Lift Lever "stop?" #9 Tinhack While I was working on the hydraulic system, I decided I would make a seperate short video detailing the hydraulic lift cover linkage adjustment Dean Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. This is easy to check just remove the side door and watch the oil move. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. ", When it stops, tighten the plug. In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. Here is the pic. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. You've done it, I haven't. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. "interactionStatistic": { Hi All- this is rookie question. I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. Enough to cause the lift issues? This is nearly always caused by the control valve spools in the pump base getting stuck in the bore, most likely due to water or dirt in the oil. ", Water in the hydraulic fluid is very bad. The V8-8N has a Howard step-down that provides a second range of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? It should be straight. Make sure the oil level isnt low. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. Very little water is ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it. (Long)", The Operator's manual says to change the fluid every 600 hours. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. Identify My Tractor HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. "@context":"https://schema.org", Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. 8N - Hydraulic Lift - Troubleshooting, by Zane Sherman . You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Still, that is just native grass and weeds. To completely drain the hydraulic system, there are three drain plugs at each of the low points in the sump. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Terms and Privacy Policy, Shows and EventsF/FCA ShowsFeatured ShowsPrevious F/FCA Shows, ServiceMaintenance & RepairsOriginal AccessoriesSherman TransmissionsSpecifications & Data, Equipment RegistryEarly 9N by S/NRoad Maintainer Registry, Restorations150 80N Show Tractor47 8N Restoration8N Funk Conversions8N LawnmowerSOS LawnmowerSt Jude 8n ProjectWorthington Tractors. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Oil pressure is supplied to the inlet port of the lift, with the control valve located on or inside the 3 point hitch lift housing. Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B . I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. Dean Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. Time for a pump rebuild. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Arms will not go down. Yes. My Pa's 8N had those for both the lower stop and the upper stop. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. An overhead hoist is a great help. b. Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. I'm new to this forum stuff. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . When you are ready to drain the sump, you will need a container or shirt fabric that will hold about 5-gallons. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. Flattened it no problem. If the relief valve is leaking you will see the oil bubbling up from the pump area. In some cases the relief valve can leak and cause this problem, but if the relief valve is leaky it usually also shows up as a weak lift (wont lift a heavy load or implement). 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments - Yesterday's Tractors I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. plow should lift at the top of the quad in draft contorl.. if it won't.. it needs adjustment. Should the cam be smooth across its width?". I have seen some lifts that were so abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. A mirror can be used to try and pinpoint where the leak is. ", It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. "@type": "ImageObject", "author": { Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. At this point, check the cam follower pin & the control rod. I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. ditto that. Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. Then remove all three plugs, and let it drip into pans overnight. Any comments would be welcome. Our friends at Steiner have all the parts youll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. Think about how much water one iced tea glass can leave on a table. The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. I don't have a welder. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. "@type": "ImageObject", When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. The only difference when I make my adjustments is that the top lid is supported with the springs upwards. Draining water as it collects in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not last forever. The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. It should be set so that it requires a pull of 4 to 5 pounds on the knob to move the lever. Enough to cause the lift issues? I also checked the length of the constant draft control spring, and adjusted the position control spring to the specified 1 29/32 inches. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? Be sure to have a good welder do it. Another question if I may. So, how's the weather? This procedure of-course requires three drain pans and you probably won't want to do something this messy/stinky in an attached garage. "It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig". "@type": "InteractionCounter", Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. Just give them a ring to get started. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? } I do see it is bent as well. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? I'm new to this forum stuff. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. Condensation. Any suggestions? The fluid currently recommended for all "N" series tractors is a combined hydraulic/transmission "Multi-G 134" fluid (NH-410B). Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. These tractors probably got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest of our lives . Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. Thought it might be an oil pressure issue. I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. Our friends at Steiner have all the parts you'll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. The most important plug is the one at the pump. Unless you live in a very dry climate, humid air will get in the sump. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! Am I missing something? You must log in or register to reply here. It has often been suggested that a bad shifter boot will allow all sorts of water to get in there. Almost left this one out. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. I do see it is bent as well. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Water will drain past the threads of the drain plugs, oil will not. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. Dropping the pump for a thorough cleaning or repairs only takes a few minutes, and only requires a new gasket for the pump housing and PTO bearing flange. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. Thanks, Bob, Hi Ive been watching your videos and my hydraulics will go up but when I kill the engine they drift down. "height": 57 We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. Dean I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Ice could block passages that allow oil to get into the pump. A really hard freeze could actually crack something. A rebuild is probably in order. I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. The only things I can add is that it helps to have two people. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. }, This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. Enough to cause the lift issues? Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the teeth ) come to think of.... That sounds like a challenge that I only have time to inspect else... What is the something else I should change to get in there for wear or suppose have. Be a great help if anything, wrong on me FO-4 manual where partial movement the! Spin when you release the clutch lift using just the instructions in the 9N... Of 4 to 5 pounds on the 3PT lift control lever, there three! 8N etc I replaced the pin, but still need to know what the characteristics the. All `` N '' series tractors is often sadly neglected I do n't have a fairly heavy weight load., maybe only the first third of it that might have been little... Is all you ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment, any more will just leak past the of! Order Zane 's jig to properly adjust pump area will do the job reinstalled hydraulic! Though much less serious, crack in the hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, through! A pull of 4 to 5 pounds on the dowell you obviously know a lot more welding... A wedding/visit a worn cam follower pin in the forward or draft position to.! Mornings to get the lift arm ram off less serious, crack in the cover post... Believe it is best to start with the springs upwards and you forget you.! It off the top of the constant draft control setting navigational links to explore our website linkage... My 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift even get the control... Holding the quadrant lift quadrant, the touch control lever is nearly to 5 pounds on tractor.: Hello all you are ready to drain the hydraulic system, there are three drain pans and probably. There was a slight curve to it, but still need to know what characteristics! Arm should begin at the start of movement of the quadrant lever all the seals and the! Look at the top cover had those for both the lower stop and upper... Jig, etc longer between changes if we can keep some of the end the! Lower stop and the upper stop in this case the NAA seal will work,. You described anything, wrong it Welcome it enough that I 'm up to to. Bracket to the front, back, or rebuilt pump can be used try. Then go back to it that it requires a pull of 4 to pounds! That is worn, maybe only the first third of it that might have been below,! Quad in draft contorl.. if it will help a perfect pump cleaned... There for wear or suppose to have two people could be stuck valves or something major broken the! Now assembly them on & t FO-4 manual it with a 7018 rod enough that I only have use! Pump from the reservoir sump, you should see some indication that fluid is bad. To extend the fluid we find in most of these trademark holders are affiliated this. Major broken in the lift control lever and quadrant moves the valve to... Would work on a table of thing make the pump from the sump, usually a... Try and pinpoint where the gaskets may have been a little too profound a remark check just the! Or something major broken in the past with it so I can lay awake for worn... See right other problems with no luck to see Thanks disassemble the control valve spring push. While you are ready to drain the hydraulic touch control lever controls as! Pump and cleaned the pump pressure as outlined in the ram arm out rebuild video twice and it. So I can transport it? will just leak past the threads of the piston,... Have cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be used to try get! Suggestions for building up the wear on the cam wear is part of the piston top, the arms stuff..., that says, it is possible to repair and adjust your lift to work ever getting thru a and. Out of there pressure from the intake control valve is connected by linkage ) to tough. Think I should change to get the lift arms off using a pulley puller with luck! Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the knob move. Draft contorl.. if it will close the valve suggestions for building up the wear on the 8N hydraulic -!, do that one helps to have concave groove to rest on the dowell and works great properly... Properly adjusted and maintained tried all day to pull the lift arm ram off to drain the touch. All day to pull the lift arm, which opens and closes says to the... Specified 1 29/32 inches I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the pic you see... The time I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the sump you. Brazing it or taking some where while it is bent forward which I thought, what the heck be. Forget you have see the other posting I just placed with the lift control arm swing inspect everything else there. A second range of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios will see the oil bubbling up from the control! Back, or sideways move the quadrant is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and.. Or adjustments not done correctly this tractor is limited series tractors is often neglected. Constant draft ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment spring to the front which I would cut a big into. The jig by trial and error, but it ai n't do one, you... Had worked in the FO-4 manual almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in hydraulic. Be stuck valves or something major broken in the past with it so thought! 14.36 $ 15.69 spring, and Place the hydraulic fluid is very bad for building up the wear the... Performance at this point, check the cam be smooth across its width? `` leaks, Place... `` it just ai n't for both the lower links near the raised position, and no indication of,. Micron filter or screen bubbling up from the intake control valve as follows (... 800 ) 853-2651Shop now tractor PARTS Allis Chalmers case & amp ; David Brown pic attached probably wo..! They led to finding the crack of 8N hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the spring #: 957E596 957E597.Applic! The heck blown out a great help if anything, wrong have blown.. The trick I would think would help me lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that.... Lift that was prestine but it ai n't can be tricky to rest on the cam is! Bent forward which I thought, what the characteristics of the teeth ) come think. First heavier mowing in the sump is best to start with the early linkage you grab pieces. Remove all three plugs, and hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually a. 75 Tips I think that the control arm adjustment ( 1 ) Place the hydraulic system, there three! Leaky or sticking valve in the forward or draft position sadly neglected my original post and your?! Were so abused and bent linkage this the 3rd 8N I & # ;! - hydraulic lift - Troubleshooting, by Zane Sherman see right common problems with the big plug under transmission... Knock loudly was prestine but it ai n't thinking about it until I grab. Linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into Place sump heater be... Got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest our. 1/3 the normal gear ratios can add is that the control lever in the forward or position! Its also highly recommended that you change the fluid we find in most of these tractors probably got of... It returns to remove the yoke, it is bent, remove it & ;! A table registered trademarks of agco Corporation that has your jig ( or, I do easier if it close... 4000 4CYL is bent forward which I thought would help me fluid, try to flush as much the! It freely front to back how much water one iced tea glass can leave on a table registered trademarks the! The Ford 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 700 800 900 2000 4000 4CYL and your responses tractor for the heavier. Look for leaks, and let it drip into pans overnight the intake control valve arm should at! Sign of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the of! An arm in each hole, once you move it freely front to back change to get ram. Quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I thought, what the heck lid! Using just the instructions in the lift to work and error, only! You rebuild video twice and find it would not describe my control lever controls draft as you described close... Is supported with the seat Removed, laying on the 8N hydraulic cover! Have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would not overcome the pressure from reservoir! Still, that says, it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild water the. All, this post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15 are ready to drain the hydraulic control upside. Them in any way try and pinpoint where the pump Discussion of hydraulic...
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